Located in the northern end of Sumatra, Bukit Lawang has developed a reputation as a destination for wildlife. This small village on the Bohorok River certainly punches above its weight in eco-tourism in the region. I visited the area for jungle trekking on a recent trip through Indonesia. This Guide to Bukit Lawang is to help determine if it’s a good spot for your next travel destination.
About Bukit Lawang
How did a sleepy jungle village turn into a center of Sumatran ecotourism? Bukit Lawang has a prime location adjacent to Gunung Leuser National Park, one of the last remaining habitats of the Sumatran Orangutan.
It started back in 1973 when two Swiss environmentalists established an Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. Their goal was to rescue and rehabilitate as many Sumatran Orangutans as possible, many of whom were kept as pets illegally.
This brought much attention to the area and began attracting visitors to Bukit Lawang. Although the rehabilitation center’s mission has changed, the crowds continue to come. These days, over 7,000 Sumatran Orangutans live in the park, some wild and some returned to the jungle following rehab.
One of the most critical and tragic incidents in Bukit Lawang was in 2003 when a flash flood devastated the village and killed over 200 people. This incident is seared into the village memory, and several folks brought up the incident with me during my stay. The disaster was linked to illegal logging (something that still scars the landscape) and led to the increased focus on sustainability and eco-tourism.
About Sumatran Orangutans
Orangutans are great apes native to the rainforests of Indonesia and Malaysia. There are three species of Orangutan: the Sumatran, Borneo, and Tapanuli. Orangutan comes from the Bahasa word meaning Orang – person, and utan – Forest. So, literally, it translates to Person of the Forest.
Sumatran Orangutans differ from Borneo in a few distinct characteristics. They tend to have longer, lighter-colored, and silkier fur and spend more time among tree branches. Sumatran Orangutans also tend to be more social than their Bornean cousins.
These Orangutans also eat more fruit, possibly due to the higher concentration of fruit in the jungles they inhabit. I heard they tend to love durian.
Given their location, the Tapanuli Orangutan should be more related, but they appear more genetically distinct. Tapanulis physically have frizzier hair and tend to be more solitary. Only 800 individuals remain in the wild. Tapanuli habitat is further south than Sumatran Orangutans (south of Lake Toba in South Tapanuli).
Like all other orangutans, Sumatrans are critically endangered due to their small population and habitat loss. Palm oil is a critical impact of this habitat loss, and sadly, it is so noticeable in the areas around the national park.
The Trek
I wanted to detail my two-day trek. Hopefully, it gives you an understanding of what was included, how it felt, and which parts I found the best. Ideally, this will assist you in planning your travel to Sumatra.
Day 1 – Wilder Jungle
The first day’s trek began near the village of Bukit Kencur, about 8 km or so from Bukit Lawang. The route was on the back of a motorbike, which was not the most comfortable way to go but fine for a single person traveling. What struck me was the sheer number of palm oil plantations. They’re so pervasive and devastating in Sumatra. Animals don’t live among the palm oil trees, so it feels barren.
The trip started with picking up another guide and leaving the road into the jungle. We crossed a stream and then prepared to enter the jungle. From here, we rolled our socks over our pants and used tobacco water to coat our shoes and socks. What I didn’t know ahead of time was that this was for leeches. They didn’t prepare me for the leeches (another friend mentioned it at the last minute in Singapore, and I bought longer/thicker socks last minute).
The first day’s hike was wild. It felt like true jungle trekking somewhere far away from civilization. It was often hard for me to discern a trail, but thanks to two local guides, I knew I was at least safe from getting lost.
It was challenging hiking at times, with a few steep inclines and declines throughout. We saw little wildlife. The impressive part was that I could hear Orangutans and other wildlife, but they stayed hidden beyond sight.
We ended up wandering and cutting, at times, through the thick brush that regrew over the trails. The hard part was the leeches and mosquitos, of which there were plenty. I had never seen so many leeches before in my life. Full disclosure: I ended up finding two leeches on me. Strangely, I felt them immediately, which is uncommon, and removed them without bleeding. Honestly, as time progressed, I cared less and less about the leeches, even if they freaked me out early in the journey.
We ended up having lunch in a magical opening in the jungle—a small clearing around a waterfall. I was impressed with the guides’ ability to whip me up a tasty lunch! My Lifestraw bottle came in handy, as I used far more water than anticipated. The humidity and difficulty pushed me to drink more than I expected.
The second half of the hike was similar to the first. We continued to wander through the jungle. The sun was hotter at this point of the day, and the foliage provided excellent cover. I could mostly hear more wildlife. Some I was surprised with, including lizards and woodpeckers. The awe of the location and the fact that we were the only three we saw all day was awestriking. Indeed, the level of solitude is a rare find in today’s world.
Camping
The campsite was in a beautiful location alongside the river. The tents were on an elevated area with heavy plastic. It was simple but clean and dry. The leftmost tent was the cooking and sitting area, and where some staff would sleep.
The location is beautiful. It’s located on the river bank, and the land across the river is steep, rocky, and covered with beautiful jungle foliage. There’s not much to do at the campsite, which was part of its charm. My guide recommended swimming, which didn’t appeal with the water there and the weather. Given that it was the rainy season, it tended to rain on and off during our time at the camp.
The highlight of the evening was dinner. I was impressed with the spread they prepared for me, which included several different dishes. It was also all vegetarian, which I learned was a signature of the lodge I used.
Sleeping was a low point. The evening rain may have been the best part, with its soothing tone, but finding comfort on the ground was difficult. I had a sleep sheet and a small travel pillow, and they provided the bare minimum of comfort. I still slept, but pretty fitfully.
Day 2 – Common Tourist Loop
The second day required us to get on the road back to the village. Returning to civilization did deflate some of the magic from the trip. The town of Bukit Lawang is along another entrance to the Gunung Leuser National Park.
Entering the park required us to cross a small bridge and through an eco-lodge to get to the entrance. I could already tell this would be a very different day. Even before we entered the official park, we saw our first orangutans.
There was a pair of adult Orangutans in the trees and plenty of tourists situated around taking photos. In this part of the National Park, there is a higher concentration of orangutans and monkeys comfortable with humans.
Some of the orangutans were previously rehabilitated and are likely still fed by organizations in the area. This may be due to their inability to be fully wild and likely partially to attract for tourists.
The entrance to the national park was just beyond this. This park area was the first I saw with an official entrance sign. We were solo at the entrance sign and even saw a large macaque.
Overall, the park had well-defined trails that crisscrossed the area. It was already more crowded, and it was significantly easier to see wildlife. I saw several groups of Orangutans and monkeys (such as macaques and leaf monkeys). Wildlife attracted crowds, and most (but not all) of the wildlife seemed almost zoo-like with the gawking tourists. It was still magical, in a sense, to see these animals in their native jungles, though.
One definite bonus here is that for some reason, there were few leeches and seemingly fewer mosquitos than on day 1. I can’t be sure why that is, but I saw a handful of leeches compared to the vast numbers I saw the first day.
My guide took me to what he called the longer loop. This got us away from some of the main crowd areas. However, hiking was more difficult and muddier, so if you have the option, be aware.
The weirdest moment during this hike was an unplanned encounter with an Orangutan. It was both frightening and sad. We were ascending part of a trail, and I was slightly behind the guy when a female orangutan emerged from just off the trail.
She lunged at my guide, grabbing his back, and he had to fight her off to get her to leave. I’m pretty sure she wanted his bag, but I’m not entirely sure. This is likely a product of how accustomed they are around humans (as opposed to the wilder areas where they’ll try to avoid human interaction).
The final part of the hike was a return to the river. This was my least favorite part of the trip. I didn’t realize this would be part of my trip and expected it to be more optional. The descent to the river was arduous. It was steep and required navigating ropes to assist in lowering myself down parts of the trail.
There were several moments on the descent that I nearly injured myself. So, be aware of this if you are uncertain about your footing or desire to hike a trail like this. It took longer than I expected to reach the riverside. The descent was a significant time and distance of the hike.
I didn’t get good shots of the tube ride since they wrapped all my items in plastic. The tube consists of three sections, and my guide and the tube guide sat on either end of me to navigate the river.
It was more fun than I thought it would be. I was initially annoyed because I wasn’t dressed for the tube ride, and the trail to get there was treacherous, but I’m glad I could also experience this part of the trip.
Overall Opinion
I’m glad I did the two-day hike. If I had known that we’d be doing two areas that were not connected and didn’t require staying in the jungle, I’d likely have reconsidered that portion. While it was nice, it lacked comfort when sleeping. I would risk comfort for unique experiences, but this particular one did not require it.
Seeing orangutans and the other monkeys in the jungle was magical. There’s no way to describe it otherwise. Especially when I’ve only previously seen orangutans looking sad in small zoo enclosures.
The first day’s hike was incredible even without the wildlife. I would return to Bukit Lawang to experience more days like that. Next time, I would hike 3+ days in areas where camping is required to see more unique areas.
I don’t want to discount the tourist loop. There’s a reason it’s popular. Had I not seen orangutans, I know I would have ultimately been disappointed. Seeing them swinging from the trees above my head made my trip. If you go, you need to take at least one day on the tourist loop because the other parts of the jungle, while better, may not have opportunities for orangutan sightings.
The boat ride was a nice end to the trip. If you are like me and plan to leave directly after the end of the hike, consider doing emergency laundry. It allowed me to clean my clothes and not carry dirty/wet clothes in my luggage on an airplane. You may want to clean your clothes regardless, as they were filthy after the two-day hike.
The Town of Bukit Lawang
The town of Bukit Lawang is surprisingly larger than I realized at first glance. The main feature of the village is the river, and most of the main attractions, restaurants, and hotels are relatively close to the river. There are a few others that are further into the village, and many of the options for cheaper hotels/homestays.
Depending on where you are in town probably depends on where you’ll spend most of your time (outside of orangutan trekking). The thoroughfare along the river (Jl. Orangutan) is walking or motorbike only, so keep that in mind if you have lodging booked along that street.
Personally that feels like the main tourist stretch and the area I prefer to spend my time in the village. The village also has a lot of monkeys, so be sure to secure any bags or items you have as you wander around. And don’t leave things outside your hotel room (and secure the doors too).
Packing List
- Hiking Shoes or Boots: I recommend a good pair of waterproof trail runners or boots. I prefer Salomon or Merrell myself. Boots are better but heavy for packing. I brought these Salomon X Ultra 4. I also recommend these: Merrell Men's Moab 3
- Lifestraw Water Bottle: This was a lifesaver on the more remote hike. I needed to refill it more than once due to the heat/humidity.
- Water bottle: Whether disposable or not. You’ll fill up before the hike and possibly during/at camp.
- Bug Repellant Lotion: Lotion is better than spray for the mosquitos. I used this, and it worked pretty well
- Permethrin Spray: Good way to mosquito resist your clothing before your trip. I did this for the items I planned to wear for the hikes.
- Eddie Bauer Rainier Pants: These or the Guide Pro Pants are my favorite for this type of trekking. The extra side pocket is helpful for items, and they look nice enough for walking around town/city.
- Men's Boxer Briefs: My favorite travel underwear, with great wicking and comfort for hot, humid hikes. Or Women’s Briefs
- Rain Jacket: You want a lightweight packable raincoat as well. This one worked quite well. Women’s version
- Lightweight Hiking Sock: You’ll want a lightweight sock with tight stitching and a mid-to-high ankle. Wear it over your pant opening to prevent leeches. I’d recommend at least one pair a day.
- Swimsuit: For the tubing trip back to town.
- Sunblock: Whatever your preferred brand.
- Hiking Shirts: I have a huge variety of these, and it’s hard to recommend one specific one. I prefer synthetic or merino tees (not as smelly), such as this one.
- Hat or ball cap: Whatever you’ll bring for the rest of your trip will be fine.
- Dry Bags: You’ll want at least something big enough for your electronics and anything else you want to keep dry. They’ll wrap your other stuff for the tubing trip.
- Small First Aid Kit: Important for these hikes, especially longer ones. These days, I carry something on most trips I do.
- Malaria Pills: There are two main types, and Malarone is better but pricier. Recommend checking if your insurance covers it.
- Z-Pak: Azithromycin, another key thing to get prescribed in case you need it.
- Hand Sanitizer Spray: Useful for eating and bathroom breaks.
- Osprey Stratos 24L: Whether you are doing an overnight or just a dayhike will depend on how big of a bag you need. You’ll carry more for overnights, but you don’t need a huge bag. I found a 24L bag adequate for my hike.
- Trekking Poles: I use poles regularly but didn’t bring them this time (it was part of an extended trip). I prefer cork; I find they are more comfortable in hot environments.
- Travel Insurance Information: Carry a hard copy of your travel medical insurance.
Longer Hike / Camping Items
- Sleep Sheet: This is the one I got. It’s lightweight and works well. There are cheaper options if you search around.
- Inflatable Camping Pillow: This one worked well and better than more expensive options.
- Headlamp: You’ll want a headlamp for camp. Batteries are great for longer hikes. For rechargeable, is a nice lightweight option. I recommend at least ones like this with USB-C unless you have other micro-USB devices with you.
- Sandals: You’ll want sandals for camp. These are mine. But there are lots of good options out there.
- Carabiner: I found it helpful for attaching my sandals to the outside of my pack.
- Sleep Clothes: Lightweight and packable is the key here.
- Battery Pack: You’ll want a battery pack for charging. Size it based on your expected usage and number of days.
- Activated Charcoal Pills: You should be carrying these on any overseas trip.
- Immodium: I carry this on every trip. You especially don’t want to be without on an overnight hike.
Things to Avoid.
- I don’t recommend shorts for the hikes. You’ll be hiking in some thicker areas and exposing too much skin to mosquitos and leaches.
Where to Stay in Bukit Lawang
I stayed at the Green Hill Lodge in Bukit Lawang, which a friend recommended. The rooms were comfortable, albeit a bit rustic in places. They have two lodge options, so inquire about both to determine which meets your needs. They have excellent hiking options and take you to an area that no other lodge does. It also only serves vegetarian food if that’s important (or a deal-breaker) for you.
However, there is no shortage of options in town for those looking. Here are some others that were recommended to me.
- Orangutan Bungalows: Charming rooms and a prime location next to the park. You likely won’t even need to leave the hotel grounds to catch sight of orangutans.
- Green Travelodge: A stunning plan with some of the best rooms. One of the top lodgings in town.
- Jungle Inn: One of the oldest in town, it has a great location and a nice variety of rooms. Folks who told me they stayed there highly rated it.
Where to Eat
- My Resto: Run by my tour guide and his brother. He was great, and so was his small restaurant. Definitely focus on the local cuisine.
- Wild River Cafe: Nice location on the river. Food was good. Also had internet.
- Eco Lodge Bambu Restaurant: Lovely spot across the river at the eco-lodge. One of the busier spots in town.
Getting to Bukit Lawang
No one quite prepares you for how long it takes to get to Bukit Lawang. Expect it to be anywhere from 2.5 to 4+ hours and likely on the longer end. Traffic in Medan is shockingly bad, and most of the trip involves just getting out of the city.
By Car
Most hotels in Bukit Lawang offer airport transfers. The price is very reasonable for most foreigners. For my hotel, it was 300,000 IDR ($18 USD) each way. If you can afford it, this is the preferred option.
By Bus
There is a bus option for Bukit Lawang, and it’s considerably cheaper. It’s about 25,000 IDR ($1.50 USD) from central Medan to Bukit Lawang. You will have to pay extra for luggage. Two bus companies (Almasar & Pembanungan Semesta) service this route.
First, you must get to central Medan by bus or train. It’s doable and cheaper but time-consuming.
Hotels in Medan
If you are flying in and out just for trekking, you may need to stay in Medan based on your flight schedule. Some flights leave so early that it may not be worth staying an extra night in Bukit Lawang.
- Anara Sky Kualanamu: This is Best if you want to be at the airport for an early flight.
- d’primahotel Kualanamu: Another good option close to the airport (but not in the airport). Usually cheaper than Anara Sky.
- Aryaduta: If you prefer to stay somewhere in Central Medan, this is an excellent option with a fantastic swimming pool.
Tips and FAQS
- If you are a solo traveler, ask if others are booked for the same hike and how many. Be sure to check on any cancellation possibilities or extra payments if no one else books.
- For multi-day hikes, ask about the itinerary and camping. Camping may not be worthwhile unless you are visiting areas that you need multi-days to reach.
- Dress relatively conservatively. No one will say anything, but Indonesia, particularly Northern Sumatra, is conservative. It’ll go a long way with locals.
- Bring Cash. Much of Indonesia is a cash culture. It’s not easy getting cash out in Bukit Lawang. Be sure to get some in Medan, at least.
- Consider doing laundry in Bukit Lawang. You’ll end up muddy and probably smelly. If you have a flight soon after your hike, you may want to avoid packing dirty things.
- Avoid the “Western food.” Every cafe offers some sort of “Western” option. Indonesian food is of better quality and cheaper. Many Western options may have been sitting in the freezer for a long time.
- If you are not a strong hiker, let them know. The hike to the tubing was challenging. Ask them to take you by an alternative route or avoid it.
- Avoid contact and do not feed wildlife. I saw plenty of stupid actions by hikers, and you’ll avoid self-injury and problems for the wildlife. Unfortunately, many are already too tame.
- Travel Insurance. These days, I have travel insurance for most trips. Medical coverage is key for jungle Trekking.
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