Theodore Roosevelt National Park started it’s life many years ago as Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Park. Memorial parks are an odd thing, and it’s feels a better fit as a National Park. The park protects a large swath of the North Dakotan badlands.
Why is the Park named for Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt came to the North Dakotan Badlands in 1883. Roosevelt fell in love with the badlands and returned to the area many times, even investing in a ranch and (Maltese Cross Cabin) in the area. These events took place years before Roosevelt became Governor of New York and President of the United States.
After the passing of his wife, Roosevelt returned to North Dakota to his ranch (and eventually second ranch) and his life in the West. Roosevelt became synonymous with the Wildness of the West and took great pride in his life and time there. The area where he settled is what became the National Park today.
When was Theodore Roosevelt National Park established?
Years before it was a National Park, the badlands were surveyed for an area for a park. Much of the roads and trails in the parks were created by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which famously built many park structures, roads, and trails across the National Parks.
In 1946, the area was designated Theodore Roosevelt National Wildlife Refuge. In 1951, the park was renamed Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Park, the first and only Memorial Park administered by the National Park System. This probably led to its designation in 1978 as Theodore Roosevelt National Park.
The Structure of the National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is divided into two units: the North and South units. The North Unit’s entrance is about 15 miles south of Watford City off Routh 85. The South Unit’s entrance is close to Medora, off route I-94. The two entrances are nearly 70 miles apart.
There is no way to drive internally between the units. However, you can hike between them, although you’ll need a backcountry permit. Much of the area is designated “wilderness,” so don’t expect any services.
Another interesting note is that the two units are in different time zones. The North Unit is on Central Time, and the South Unit is on Mountain Time.
When to Visit Theodore Roosevelt NP
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is open year-round (weather permitting), which gives ample opportunity to visit. The Park receives about 600,000 visitors a year, and while that sounds like a lot, it is far lower than many other National Parks.
Summers see the most traffic with children out of school and everything open. Winters can give you a lot of solitude in the park, however snow can and does at times close the roads into the park.
Spring can see more rain, which you should consider when visiting the park. Fall can be some of the best times to visit, with lower crowds and still fairly good weather.
What is the Weather like in Theodore Roosevelt NP
North Dakota experiences some extreme weather, and that is definitely noticeable in the National Park as well.
Winters can be frigid with some heavy snowfalls. You can find temperatures below -10F in peak winter. The summers can have extreme heat as well. Sometimes, I was advised not to hike on a specific date because of the high heat. You can certainly see temperatures above 100 in peak summer months.
Mid-May to October are the peak times and best weather times for visiting. Spring can be unpredictable with weather, with late snowfalls and even the potential for tornados.
For me, fall is the perfect time to go, particularly September, with still warm days, plenty of sunlight, and overall good weather conditions.
Places to Visit in Theodore Roosevelt National Park
While I recommend getting out into nature, you can visit quite a lot from the main thoroughfares through the park.
The loop road in the South Unit is popular with lots of great overlooks and stops. You’ll likely see plenty of wildlife from the road as well. The North Unit road provide great views of the badlands as well. Several short walks like the Oxbow Overlook and Painted Canyon Nature Trail, give quick, non-strenuous views.
North Unit Points of Interest
The North Unit is far smaller in terms of what is road-accessible than the South. But there are still some cool road-accessible things worth seeing, and the badlands’ views are also worth the trip. You’ll also find far fewer people than the South Unit.
Cannonball Concretions
Really odd-seeming rock spheres that don’t appear to belong to the landscape. However, it’s such a cool story in that as mineral-rich water seeps into the porous gaps of the badlands, it starts to form around a core, such as with pearls, creating these interesting stone spheres.
River Bend Overlook
It gives you a cool view over the Little Missouri River from a cool little shelter. The shelter was built by the CCC during the 1930s, so the history there is really cool as well. Enjoy the view and the Shelter.
Oxbow Overlook
Located at the end of the road in the North Unit, Oxbow Overlook is worth the stop, even just to stay if you’ve made it to the end of the Road. The views are beautiful, and several large and small trails extend from this point. Take a bit of time to wander the Overlook as well.
South Unit Points of Interest
The South Unit has many more options for places to stop and see. You can spend quite a bit of time driving the loop road and stopping at overlooks and various sites. Be sure to check out the painted canyon area as well.
Painted Canyon Area
Not Accessible from the loop road (you need to access it from I-94, exit 32), the Painted Canyon area has a visitor center and a few jumping-off points for trails through the badland landscape. It is worth visiting for a chance to get close to some of these interesting formation
Prairie Dog Towns
There are over 20 prairie dog towns in the park’s South Unit, and quite a few are located near the loop road. You’ll see the first dog town about 3 miles from the park entrance before you hit the main loop. You’ll likely even see quite a few bison in the area.
Peaceful Valley Ranch
The sole surviving ranch located within the National Park. You have an opportunity to see some of the ranch’s historic buildings and learn about the area’s history. From 1918 to 2014, the park offered horseback rides and, since sadly, ended the practice. They stopped it due to repair issues (which have been made), and maybe one day, those activities will return to the ranch.
During the 1930s, the ranch also housed Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC), Works Progress Administration (WPA), and Emergency Relief Administration (ERA) staff. Several hiking trails start from this area.
Maltese Cross Cabin
Before he was president, Teddy Roosevelt spent a lot of time in North Dakota, much of it at his ranch and Cabin. The cabin has now been moved adjacent to the South Unit Visitor Center. Guests can tour this cabin with ranger-led tours.
Coal Vein Nature Trail
Several trails explore the park’s landscape and trace along exposed coal veins. There are several of these exposed veins, and they do tend to catch on fire at times. When I was there in 2021, the vein was burning, preventing access to the area (and producing lots of smoke). Burning coal veins like these are a natural part of the Badlands landscape.
Boicourt Overlook
Boicourt Overlook gives visitors a view of the landscape of the badlands. It is a beautiful view and an easy stop along the road. It gives a good appreciation of the size and features of the park and area.
Hiking in Theodore Roosevelt NP
There are more hikes to be had in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This is just a sample of ones you can look into while in the park. If you want serious multi-day hikes, you must plan ahead and get a backcountry permit. Permits are free and can be obtained at the North and South Unit Visitors Centers.
Hiking in the North Unit
Less of a trail and more of a quick meander. Oxbow Overlook gives you a great view over the badlands of the North Unit. The trail is about 0.2 miles and starts at the end of the road for the North Unit.
A 1.5-mile trail that takes you up to a beautiful overlook over the Missouri River. Overall, the trail is pretty easygoing, with stunning views and rolling landscapes. The trail starts at the end of the road in the North Unit near the Oxbow Overlook above.
It definitely requires some prep and a lot more work. The Achebach trail requires 10+ hours and covers over 18 miles. You’ll likely have sections of it all to yourself, especially as you progress. Bring lots of water and keep an eye on the heat and weather. We were told to avoid on days when it’s particularly hot (100F or so).
Hiking in the South Unit
Elkblom & Big Plateau Loop
A 5.2 mile moderate rated high. The Big Plateau Loop gives a great view of Teddy Roosevelt’s Park’s landscape and wildlife. You wander through the badlands up to a large plateau and through various other landscapes, touching on some of the park’s wilderness areas as well.
The plateau is a popular spot for bison grazing, and you’ll likely see quite a few on your hike. Be sure to keep your distance, though, as on our ranger-led hike, he nearly had to call in for some folks in a dangerous position. Of note, the start of the hike crosses a stream, so consider waterproof footwear—my favorite of the park. The trail starts near Peaceful Valley Ranch.
Painted Canyon Trail and Nature Trail
These two trails start in the same area and help showcase some of the beautiful badlands. The trail names come from the layers of sediment that make up the badland structures. The Nature Trail is excellent for folks who want a quick introduction without the stress.
It is about 1 mile and takes about 30 minutes to complete. For those who want more of a challenge and get closer to the badlands, the Canyon Trail covers over 4 miles (out and back) and takes about 2 hours to finish.
The trail does not go through the main entrance of the South Unit but close to the Painted Canyon Visitor Center (Exit 32 off I-94)
Wind Canyon Trail
For those looking for an easy but lovely trail, Wind Canyon is a short 0.5-mile loop with beautiful views over the Little Missouri River. The trail is easily accessed from the north side of the loop road.
Wildlife in Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Before coming to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, I had no idea the diversity of wildlife in the national park. But there is ample opportunity to view wildlife, and you’ll likely see quite a few, including a multitude of Bison and Prairie Dogs. Below are some of the animals you may encounter in the park.
Bison
The largest land mammal in North America, Bison can weigh upwards of 2,000 lbs. At one point, Bison nearly went extinct, with a small herd remaining in Yellowstone National Park and in a few private reserves.
Protections have increased those numbers to over 500,000 thousands, but a far cry from the tens of millions that roamed the American West. Twenty-nine Bison from Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge arrived in 1956.
Today, Theodore Roosevelt has about 600 bison divided between the two parks. The parks limit about 200 – 400 Bison for the South Unit and about 100 – 300 Bison in the North Unit. Rangers strictly control the bison to prevent cross-breeding with cows, which can make them susceptible to respiratory diseases.
Black-tailed Prairie Dogs
While called dogs, Prairie Dogs are more closely related to squirrels than their canine friends. The name comes from the barking sound emitted by the dogs to warn other prairie dogs of danger. Of the five prairie dog species in North America, the black-tailed Prairie Dog is the only one in the park.
Prairie dogs tend to live in groups; you can find several “dog towns” throughout the park. Several are easily seen from the various roads that travel through the park. You’ll often see bison near prairie dog towns as the dogs eat the small grass, encouraging new growth. Be careful when walking by a dog town as you could easily step in a hole and injure yourself.
Oh, and keep your distance from Prairie Dogs; many carry the Bubonic Plague. Yes, that plague, the one called the black death.
Elk
Elk (also called wapiti) are large members of the deer family and one of the largest mammals in North America. Male elk (bulls) can weigh 700-1100 lbs., and female elk (cows) can weigh around 600 lbs. Fall sees a lot of activity during the “elk rut,” where bulls compete for mates. Elks were only reintroduced to the badlands in 1985 and have grown quickly in population since.
Birds
Over 185 different bird species frequent the park. Some notable ones you may see include golden eagles, wild turkeys, great horned owls, and sand-hill cranes. Many of the birds are migratory, so you’ll have to check on the season if you have something specific you hope to see.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park Itinerary
Head to the North Unit for the First Day. From here, you can drive the park road through the park. You can also visit several hiking trails.
Day 1: North Unit
Head to the North Unit for the First Day. From here you can drive the park road that leads through the park. There are several hiking trails you can also visit.
Visit: Check out Cannonball Concretions and the unusual rock formats. Stop at the various Overlooks, especially River Bend (and the cool CCC Shelter) and Oxbow Overlook, which is at the end of the road. Usually there is a ranger here to give advice as well.
Hike: Sperati Point Trail or Achenbach Trail (if you are ok with the distance).
Bonus: If Time Permits and you are a National Park Completionist, check out the nearby Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site.
Stay: Camp at Juniper Campground (First Come First Serve), or a hotel in nearby Watford City.
Day 2: South Unit
Travel early to the South Unit to beat the crowds. Stop at the Visitor Center (if it’s open by the time you arrive) or drive the road stopping at the prairie dog town before the loop.
Hike: Head early to Big Plateau Loop, near the Peaceful Valley Ranch which sadly no longer offers horse rides.
The hike should take you a few hours to complete. Bring your lunch or, after the hike, continue on the loop road to see the rest of the loop and stop at the various overlooks.
Have lunch in nearby Medora. There are a bunch of cool little spots in the strip downtown.
Following lunch, head to the other South Entrance by the Painted Canyon Visitor Center and check out the Painted Canyon Trail or Nature Trail.
Stay: Consider spending the night at Cottonwood Campground (and hear a cool Ranger Talk), or for something less rustic, in nearby Medora or if hotels are pricey/booked up in Dickinson.
Day 3+
If you have additional days, I recommend spending more time in the South Unit. There are a lot of hikes that you can do. However, unless you are planning to do longer (backcountry hikes) it might not be as interesting scenic diversity wise.
Camping in Theodore Roosevelt NP
There are a few campsites in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. There is one campground in the North Unit and two in the South Unit. However, the second is a group campsite for one group and primarily for those with horses.
South Unit Camping
Cottonwood Campground
# of Units: 76
Reservations: Half first-come first-serve – half reservation on Recreation.gov
Fees: $14 per night (summer) | $7 per night (winter) *discounts for seniors/access pass
Group Site: 1 unit – $30
The main campsite in the south and for the park. Reservations for the campsites start up to 6 months before and stop 5 days before your date. The park is a bit hit or miss with guests (it is not a high traffic NP) and you can often find day-of sites. But if you plan to do this go early.
The site can handle acommodate and RV/trailers. Make sure the site you choose can fit your vehicle. There are no hookups or dumps available.
One of the best features of the site; during the summer Rangers lead nightly presentations in the amphitheater at 9pm.
Roundup Group Horse Camp
# of Units: 1
Fees: $40
Reservations: Recreation.gov site
Dates Open: May 1 – October 30
Max Stay: 5 nights
Roundup is a group campsite and the only site that allows horses. Only one group can reserve the site at a time. The site can accommodate 20 people and 20 horses or 30 people (without horses).
Reservations begin on March 1st at 8:00 am MST and must be made at least 5 days prior.
North Unit Camping
Juniper Campground
# of Units: 50
Fees: $14 per night (summer) | $7 per night (winter) *discounts for seniors/access pass
Group Sites: 1 – $30
Reservation: First come, First Serve except for Group Site
Juniper Campground is the sole campground in the North Unit. It’ll likely fill up slower than Cottonwood Campground in the South. However, try to secure your site early in the day.
All sites can accommodate tents, and most can accommodate RVs or trailers. If you have a bigger trailer, definitely go early. There are no hookups or dumps available.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park Lodging
Unlike some other major national parks, Theodore Roosevelt NP does not offer hotels. As note above, there are campsites within the park. Hotels outside of the park are also available (see below).
Note: The South Unit has far more hotel options than the North Unit.
Hotels Recommendations Near Theodore Roosevelt NP
For hotels, there are options in Watford City for those who want to stay near the North Unit entrance. Medora offers a handful of options for those near the South Unit.
If you expand beyond Dickinson, you have a lot more options. If you are okay with driving, there are certainly plenty of options in Bismarck (about two hours away).
North Unit Hotel Recommendations
The Watford
Located close to the center of Watford City, The Watford offers clean, spacious rooms for a pretty reasonable price. [Check prices for the Watford]
Little Missouri Inn & Suites Watford City
Also a good option in town and located fairly close to the center of town. Little Missouri Inn & Suites also offers a good morning breakfast in the price of your room. I found they tended to have some of the best prices in town as well. Overall worth checking out. [Check prices for Little Missouri Inn & Suites]
South Unit Hotel Recommendations
Hotels by the South Unit are far more plentiful. Options in Medora are limited and tend to get expensive and fill up fast in the summer, so you can expand beyond a bit if you are ok driving. You’ll find most chain hotel brands if you prefer one for points or status.
Rough Riders Hotel
Renovated 76-room hotel, also famed for a place Theodore Roosevelt stayed. With a more old west feel and close to the park, Rough Riders Hotel offers guests a perfect option to stay in central Medora.
There are options for staying in the more historic rooms (with modern conveniences) or some of the newer guest suites that have been made as well. Giving options to various guests desire. There is a restaurant onsite or you have other options within town as well. [Check prices for Rough Riders]
AmericInn by Wyndham Medora
A bit off the main drag but still close to the action, AmericInn offers a good value for stays in Medora. I found the prices here to be some of the best; the rooms are clean, and the location is still quite good. Also includes complimentary breakfast, which is a nice perk. [Check prices for AmericInn]
Hawthorn Suites by Wyndham
Well-priced and Clean, Hawthorne Suites by Wyndham is a great option for those looking for a very clean and well run hotel that is just a bit further away from the park. Located in Dickinson (30 mins from the park), and you have many food options in the area. The hotel also offers free breakfast. [Check prices for Hawthorn Suites Dickinson]
TownePlace Suites by Marriott Dickinson
Being a lifetime Platinum Marriott member, I may be biased and lean towards Marriott when possible. Towneplace Suites is located in Dickinson, about 30 minutes outside the South Entrance. It’s a good option, and I find you can get better discounts in Dickinson than in Medora during the high season. [Check TownePlace Suites Dickinson Prices]
Basic Information
Visitor Centers
There are three Visitors Centers for Theodore Roosevelt NP, one in the north and two in the south unit.
North Unit Visitor Center
Address: 208 Scenic Dr, Watford City, ND 58854
Hours: Open Daily 9 am – 5 pm (May 31st – October 31st)
There is a small visitor center in the north unit right next to the entrance gate for the North Unit. It’s small, but you can get information, maps, souvenirs, and your cancellation stamp. Also a great spot to ask for information on hikes and weather in the North Unit
South Unit Visitor Center
The South Unit visitor center is the larger, better visited of the visitor centers, and it has the longest hours. Additionally, you can visit Theodore Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin, which was relocated next to the Visitor Center.
Address: 201 East River Road N. Medora, ND 58645
Hours: Daily 8 am – 6 pm (May 26th – Labor Day) | 8 am – 4:30 pm (Labor Day – October 31st) | 9 am – 4:30 pm (November 1 – May 26th)
Painted Canyon Visitor Center
Located outside of the main area of the Park. Painted Canyon Visitor Center occupies a small park access and several popular hikes in the Painted Canyon Area.
Address: Exit 32 Hwy 94, ND 58645
Hours: 9am – 4:30pm (May 1st – October 31st)
Entrance Fees
- Private Vehicle: $30
- Motorcycle: $25
- Individual: $15
- Theodore Roosevelt NP Annual Park Pass – $55
For those visiting multiple parks, buying the America the Beautiful Pass for $80 is highly recommended. This gives you annual entrance to all National Parks for a year.
** There are a few exceptions, usually for those requiring tours. **
Time Zones
Theodore Roosevelt is a bit odd in that the park has two time zones. Be aware of the time zone difference when visiting Visitor Centers or other Events.
- North Unit: Central Time Zone
- South Unit: Mountain Time Zone
Cancelation Stamps
Cancelation Stamps for Theodore Roosevelt National Park are available at the North and South Unit Visitor Centers.
Website: Official NPS Website
Getting to the Park
The Park is easily accessed from I-94 or ND-85, depending on which side of the park you want to visit. The two units are not connected internally by roads, so you’ll need to leave one unit before venturing to the other. It’ll take about an hour to drive between the two units.
Bismarck is the nearest major town and airport, about 2 hours east of the National Park. Fargo, North Dakota, is about 4.5 hours from the Park.
You can technically do it all in a day if you are pressed for time and are ok just driving the roads and visiting the overlooks. But you should plan to stay in the park for at least two days.
Check out Other North Dakota National Parks
Do you have another questions or are looking for any additional information? Let us know and we can try to address it!
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